2022 Ford F150 5.0 Won't Turn Over After Timing Job - Help Needed

Most likely you’ve got a crank‑inhibit / control side issue, not a bad starter. The fact that it cranks fine when you feed 12V into the relay socket tells me the starter motor and main power feed are OK. On these trucks, the PCM/BCM, range sensor, brake/clutch input, and immobilizer all have a say in whether that relay gets power/ground.

Working hypothesis: no crank command from the control side of the starter relay (range sensor / brake switch / PCM command / wiring). Runner‑up: something left unplugged or damaged during the timing job (ground strap, harness at front cover, crank sensor, etc.) causing the PCM to refuse to crank.

Most likely culprits

• No control to starter relay (PCM/BCM side) – Key/start button works, but the relay coil never gets power or ground, so it won’t pull in unless you jump it.
• Range (gear) / brake input issue – Truck doesn’t “see” Park/Neutral or brake applied, so it inhibits crank. Common after big jobs if a connector got missed or a harness got tugged.
• Missed connector / ground from timing job – Crank sensor, cam sensor, or main engine ground not connected; PCM may not allow crank if it’s missing critical inputs or ground.

How to narrow it down

1. Confirm basic behavior

   • Try to start normally.
   • Note:
     • Do you get dash lights and accessories?
     • Any “No Key Detected”, “Shift to Park”, “Service AdvanceTrac”, immobilizer/key symbol messages?
   • If dash is dead or flickering, you’ve got a main power/ground issue, not just crank inhibit.

2. Check fuses and swap the starter relay

   • In the underhood fuse box, find the starter relay and its fuse(s) (use the lid diagram/owner’s manual).
   • Swap the starter relay with another identical relay (like A/C clutch or fan) that you know works.
   • If it now cranks normally, the relay was bad.
   • If still no crank from the key, but it cranks when you jump the socket, move on.

3. Test the relay control side with a meter or test light

   • Pull the starter relay. You’ve got 4 pins:
     • Two are the high‑current side (one hot all the time, one to starter).
     • Two are the coil/control side (from PCM/BCM/ignition).
   • With key OFF, find the constant 12V pin (that’s good; you already know that works since your jump works).
   • Now have someone hit START while you probe the other two smaller pins:
     • You should see either 12V or ground appear on one of them when cranking is commanded.
   • Results:
     • No change on either coil pin when you hit START → the truck is not even trying to energize the relay. That’s your problem: upstream control (range, brake, PCM, immobilizer, wiring).
     • You get proper coil power/ground but relay doesn’t click → bad relay or bad socket connection.

4. Check Park/Neutral and brake input

   • Make sure the shifter is fully in PARK. Try starting in NEUTRAL.
   • Step firmly on the brake pedal and try again.
   • Watch the dash: does it correctly show P when in Park, and does the brake lights come on?
   • If the brake lights don’t work → check brake switch / its connector.
   • If gear indicator is wrong or blank → possible range sensor / shifter harness issue.

5. Look over everything you touched during the timing job

   Focus on the front of the engine and the harnesses you moved:

   • Verify crankshaft position sensor is plugged in and not damaged.
   • Verify both cam sensors are plugged in.
   • Check for any pinched or stretched harness near the front cover, valve covers, and by the starter relay area.
   • Confirm engine grounds:
     • Block‑to‑chassis ground straps tight and clean.
     • Any ground eyelets you removed from timing cover or heads are reinstalled.

   A missing ground can make modules act dead or refuse to crank.

6. Scan the truck – not optional on a 2022

   • Use a decent scan tool (not just a cheap code reader) and check all modules, especially:
     • PCM
     • BCM / Body Control
     • Instrument cluster
     • PATS/immobilizer if separate
   • Look for current or pending codes related to:
     • Crank sensor, cam sensor
     • Range/PRNDL, brake switch
     • Immobilizer / key / steering column
   • If you see immobilizer or “crank request denied” type codes, that’s why it won’t crank.
   • If you see no communication with PCM or similar, re‑check power/grounds and connectors at the PCM.

7. Check for immobilizer/key issues

   • Try a second key if you have one.
   • Watch for a flashing security light when you try to start.
   • If it cranks only when you jump the relay and you’ve got PATS/immobilizer codes, the system is intentionally blocking the crank command. That’s dealer‑level or good locksmith scan tool territory.

Possible parts (if needed)

• Starter relay – only if swapping with a known‑good relay fixes the issue.
• Brake light switch – if brake lights don’t work and scan data shows no brake input when pedal is pressed.
• Transmission range sensor / shifter assembly – if the truck doesn’t reliably show Park/Neutral and won’t crank unless you wiggle the shifter.

A few questions

1. When you hit START normally, do you hear any click from the underhood fuse box or starter area, or is it totally silent?
2. Do you have any warning messages or security/key icons on the dash when you try to start?
3. During the timing job, did you disconnect or move the PCM, main engine harness plugs, or any grounds on the front cover/heads, and have you double‑checked all of those are clean and tight?

Answer those and I can tighten this down further and tell you exactly where to put the meter.