2024 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon JLUR X 37s Lift and Re-gear Questions
I have a 2024 JLUR X (4.56 gears, ~1.5” factory lift). I drive highways and moderate Colorado trails. I’m considering 37s and want to know if I need to re-gear, if I’ll need wheel spacers, and if I need more lift to keep full articulation.
Summary
You can run 37s on a 2024 JLUR X, but not “just bolt-on.” With 4.56s you don’t have to re-gear, but you’ll feel it. Wheel offset and bump stops/lift are what keep the 37s from eating your fenders at full flex.
Best upgrade path
- 37x12.50R17s on proper-offset wheels — Clears control arms and inner fenders without relying on big spacers.
- 2.5–3” total lift with bump stop tuning — Your X is already ~1.5” up; you want about another 1–1.5” plus bump stops to keep full articulation.
- Run 4.56s for now, plan gears later — 4.56 is livable on 37s; re-gear to 4.88/5.13 only if you hate the highway manners or tow.
- Steering/axle support — 37s add stress; address weak links before you bend something on a Colorado trail.
The parts to do it right
- 37x12.50R17 A/T or M/T tires — Main upgrade; A/T if you do lots of highway, M/T if you’re mostly dirt/rocks.
- 17x8.5 wheels, 0 to -12 mm offset (4.5–4.75” backspacing) — Clears front LCAs and sway bar at full lock; usually no spacers needed.
- Front & rear bump stop extensions — Set up-travel so 37s don’t crush fenders or pinch seams when stuffed.
- Additional 1–1.5” lift (springs or spacer on top of X) — Gets you to ~2.5–3” total; sweet spot for 37s with real flex.
- Adjustable front lower control arms — Put caster back in spec after lift so it tracks straight on I‑70.
- Rear tire carrier reinforcement or hinge carrier — Stock carrier/tailgate will hate a 37” spare long-term.
- Heavy-duty steering (tie rod at minimum) — Stock aluminum tie rod is a pretzel waiting to happen with 37s.
- Programmer/speedo calibrator — Fixes speedometer, shift points, and TPMS for 37s.
Things to consider
- 4.56 + 37s: expect more downshifts on grades and slower 8th-gear cruising; still usable with the 8‑speed.
- If you keep stock wheels, you’ll likely need 1.5” spacers to clear arms at full lock.
- Full factory fenders: 37s + ~2.5–3” lift + correct bump stops = workable; high-line or trimmed fenders give more margin.
- Colorado rock + 37s + stock shafts/ball joints = keep your right foot in check.
- Alignment after lift is non‑negotiable.
Realist expectations & tradeoffs
- You gain clearance and traction, but you lose some acceleration and braking performance.
- Ride will be a bit firmer and more “truck-like,” especially with heavier tires.
- Fuel economy will drop; don’t be shocked by a 2–3 mpg hit.
- Re-gear (4.88/5.13) becomes more attractive if you tow, add armor, or hate constant downshifts.
- 37s will expose weak links; budget for maintenance on ball joints, unit bearings, and steering.
Questions
- Are you staying on the factory Rubicon wheels or open to aftermarket?
- Do you tow or carry a lot of armor/camping weight regularly?
What are some of the main brands I should consider for these parts? What's most popular?
Most JL guys on 37s end up in the same brand pool. Here’s what’s common and proven, not boutique stuff.
Tires (37x12.50R17)
- Nitto Ridge Grappler – Super popular hybrid; good highway manners, solid off‑road.
- BFGoodrich KO2 – Long life, good in snow; not as tough as KM3 off‑road.
- BFGoodrich KM3 – More off‑road biased, softer on‑road.
- Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T – Aggressive A/T, good in rocks.
- Falken Wildpeak AT3W – Great value, strong winter performance.
Wheels (17x8.5, 0 to -12 mm offset)
- Method Race Wheels – Tons of JL‑friendly specs, very common.
- AEV – More OEM‑plus look, strong, proper backspacing.
- KMC – Lots of styles, good strength.
- Fuel – Popular, more “flashy” designs.
Lift / Springs / Bump Stops (to get you to ~2.5–3” total)
- MetalCloak – Great articulation, very popular with trail guys.
- Rock Krawler – Flexy, more hardcore trail focus.
- Teraflex – Good middle‑ground, lots of JL‑specific kits.
- Mopar lift – OEM‑friendly, rides nice, but you already have some of that “X” height.
Control Arms / Links
- MetalCloak or Rock Krawler – For serious flex and adjustability.
- Teraflex – Solid adjustable arms for a more mild build.
Steering (tie rod/drag link)
- Steer Smarts (Yeti) – Probably the most common JL steering upgrade.
- Synergy – Very popular, trail‑proven.
Rear Tire Carrier Reinforcement
- Teraflex Alpha HD – Hinge/carry system, very common.
- LOD, JCR, Motobilt – If you want a full bumper‑integrated carrier.
- Mopar hinge reinforcement – OEM‑style solution.
Programmer / Calibration
- Tazer JL (Z Automotive) – Most popular for tire size, TPMS, and feature tweaks.
- JScan app + OBD dongle – Cheaper, more DIY‑nerdy.
If you tell me:
- keeping stock wheels or not, and
- A/T vs M/T preference,
I can narrow this to a specific combo that’ll work cleanly on your JLUR X.
